The most common cause of heat stroke in cats and dogs is leaving a pet in a car without adequate ventilation. Never leave any animal in a parked vehicle in warm weather, no matter how briefly. The inside temperature can skyrocket to a dangerous level in a few short minutes, even with the windows cracked open. The pet’s temperature can rise rapidly and lead to collapse, often within minutes.

Heat stroke in pets can also result from leaving a pet in a yard on a hot day without access to shade or water, and excessive or vigorous exercise when it is hot. Too much excitement or exercise can put a dog at risk even when the temperature or humidity does not seem extreme. Flat-faced dogs (Pugs, Boxers, and Bulldogs) are at greater risk because of their narrow, short airways. Muzzled dogs may not be able to pant freely.

Any infection that causes a fever can lead to hyperthermia. Seizures or severe muscle spasms can also increase body temperature.

Heat stroke in a cat or dog is an emergency that required safe, controlled reduction of body temperature. Cool water or cold cloths may be placed on the head, stomach, underarms and feet. Rubbing alcohol may be applied to the footpads. Ice may be placed around the mouth and anus. The dog’s rectal temperature should be monitored, and treatment stopped when the rectal temperature decreases to 103°F (39.4°C).

Most otherwise healthy pets can recover from heat stroke if their body temperature did not become extremely high. The prognosis depends on how high the pet’s temperature climbed, how long it lasted, and the physical condition of the pet before the heat exposure.

Written and reviewed by John A. Bukowski, DVM, MPH, PhD
and Susan E. Aiello, DVM, ELS
  All content on WebVet is reviewed annually by Vets to guarantee its timeliness and accuracy.

In humans, the reaction that occurs usually affects the respiratory system, causing breathing problems such as asthma.  A different type of chemical reaction usually occurs in the body of the dog and cat. The major sign that occurs as a result of this particular type of allergic reaction is usually itching. The itching causes the pet to chew and scratch; which, in turn causes more damage to the skin. The skin often becomes infected or thickened from prolonged chewing and scratching. 

Some allergic reactions occur as soon as exposure occurs, but most reactions are delayed; and don’t become evident for 3-7 days after the exposure. This can make determination of the causative agent very difficult. Often a pet that develops an allergy will develop other  allergies later in life, which makes control even more frustrating at times.

An allergy never develops the first time exposure occurs. It takes time for the body to develop an allergy to a particular substance.  Remember people and pets are similiar in that they become allergic to what they are exposed to the MOST!!  So your pet is most likely to become allergy to a substance it is in contact with on a daily basis! This is the reason many pets do not develop an allergy until the later years of life.

The most common allergy seen in the dog and cat is the result of flea bites. The pet becomes allergic to the PROTEIN in the SALIVA of the flea. The reaction can occur after only one flea bite!!  Many times there will be no fleas on the pet when it is examined, which causes the owner to question the diagnosis. Remember  MOST ALLERGIC REACTIONS OCCUR 3-7 DAYS AFTER THE EXPOSURE TO THE ALLERGENIC SUBSTANCE.

Allergies are often NOT PREVENTABLE; but CONTROL with medications is effective,  as long as the owner will follow our instructions and continue treatment. You must be patient and realize that the condition probably will recur throughout the pet’s life, if and when exposure occurs.

The secret is to get proper medical attention as soon as signs of allergy are seen.  Prompt treatment will prevent the skin lesions from becoming more severe.

Initial recommendations are to control flea infestation.  Fighting fleas is a constant war because:

• The flea’s life cycle can involve more than one year’s time.
• Most of the life cycle of the flea occurs off the pet.
• Premises may be contaminated with fleas from other animals.

Fleas must be kept off the pet to control the allergic reaction. There are many topical flea treatments available at our hospital that will help control fleas. Treatment of the house and yard is sometimes still necessary in areas highly infested with fleas.

Once flea allergy is eliminated or controlled, then we can move on to other aspects of the problem  such as food allergy, contact allergy, and inhaled allergies. We find that if the flea allergy can be controlled, it then becomes much easier to control the other problems in most cases. We highly recommend “allergy testing” or referral to a dermatologist in dogs with recurrent allergies that are difficult to control with oral medications.

 All deworming medicines are poisonous to some extent and should only be used as needed and under proper conditions.
 At this time there is no one dewormer that can eliminate all species of parasites.  Consequently an accurate diagnosis is necessary to treat your pet properly.
 Diagnosis is usually made from a fresh stool sample (passed less than 12 hours) or, in the case of tapeworms, seeing the segments in the stool.
 Most puppies and kittens are infected before birth and, for this reason, will need deworming starting at 6 weeks of age. If hookworms are suspected, stools should be checked starting as early as 2-3 weeks. 
 Occasionally, for a heavy parasitic infection, 3 or even 4 treatments may be necessary to eliminate the parasite.
 The following is a brief description of the common intestinal parasites with their symptoms, diagnosis, treatment, prevention, and human transmission.
ROUNDWORMS:
This is a common worm of puppies and kittens, but can be seen in any age dog or cat. Diagnosis is made from a microscopic examination of the feces or from a description of the worm if it is seen in the stool or vomitus. Treatment is an oral medication given at 2 -3 week intervals.  Symptoms will vary from none to marked vomiting and diarrhea, and abdominal swelling.  Transmission to adult dogs and cats occurs by infected feces contaminating the yard. As a result, prevention is accomplished by isolating your pet from infected feces of other animals. For dogs, the heartworm preventives also prevent roundworm infection. Transmission to humans is rare; young children can develop “visceral larval migrans” by eating dirt contaminated with feces.
HOOKWORMS:
This is also a common worm of puppies and kittens but is seen with equal frequency in adults.  This parasite sucks your pet’s blood and can cause severe anemia.  Diagnosis is made from a microscopic examination of your pet’s stool.  Treatment is either an oral medication or an injection or both.  This is repeated 2-3 weeks later.  Symptoms will vary from none to blood in the stool (dark tar-colored stool) with diarrhea.  Severe cases may need a transfusion and hospitalization.  Transmission to adults occurs by infected feces contaminating the grass or soil.  Prevention, therefore, requires that the pet be kept away from contaminated areas.  Certain types of heartworm preventive can also prevent hookworm infections in dogs. Transmission to humans is uncommon and is usually shows up as skin lesions.                                          
WHIPWORMS:
This worm affects dogs only. Diagnosis is also made from a microscopic exam of the feces.  Eggs from this parasite pass intermittently, however, so it may be necessary to check multiple fecals before a diagnosis is made. Treatment is an oral or injectable medication given at 3-week intervals for several treatments depending on the severity of the infection.  Symptoms vary from none to a severe watery diarrhea, vomiting, and marked weight loss. Some dogs require hospitalization for treatment of dehydration, malnutrition, and infection. There is no human transmission.
TAPEWORMS:
This common worm affects both dogs and cats. Transmission occurs when your dog or cat bites and “eats” a flea, or by ingesting other wildlife animals feces (rabbits, etc). The intermediate form of the tapeworm is inside the flea’s body and it then attaches to the intestine and begins to grow “segments”. In about 3 weeks, these segments begin to pass in the stool. They are approximately ¼ to ½ inch long, flat, and white. After a short time in the air, they dry up to resemble a small yellow flat seed.  Diagnosis is made from seeing these segments on the stool or on the pet’s back end rather than a microscopic fecal exam. Treatment is either by oral tablets or by an injection. The tapeworm infection kills existing tapeworms but it does not prevent future infection. The only prevention is strict flea control. There is no direct transmission from dog or cat to a human.
GIARDIA:
This parasite is not a worm. It is a very tiny single-celled parasite that can live in the intestines of dogs, cats, and man.  Giardia lives in areas of standing water like lakes and ponds.  It is seen most commonly in dogs living in these areas or coming out of kennel-type situations (pet stores, shelters, dog pounds, etc.) but its incidence is increasing.  Symptoms include intermittent or continuous diarrhea, weight loss, depression, and loss of appetite. Diagnosis is made from a very fresh fecal specimen that must be collected at the clinic for optimum results.  A surprising number of affected animals are “occult”; that is, they are infected but are negative on these tests even with multiple examinations. As a result, this parasite is often treated without a confirming diagnosis.  Treatment is an oral medication administered at home. Prevention involves careful disposal of all fecal material and cleaning contaminated areas. Humans can become infected with Giardia so special care must be taken to wash hands and utensils.
COCCIDIA:
This is also a single-celled parasite. It is seen primarily in puppies and kittens, although debilitated adults can also be affected.  Transmission occurs by eating the infective stage of the parasite. It then reproduces in the intestinal tract causing no symptoms in mild cases to bloody diarrhea in severely affected pets. Diagnosis is made from a fresh stool sample. Treatment varies greatly. Animals showing no signs of illness are often not treated because a mild case is often self-limiting. Pets with diarrhea are treated at home with an oral medication. Severely affected pets may need hospitalization. Prevention involves disposal of all stools and cleaning the pet’s living area. Human transmission is uncommon but can occur.

Flea Infestations are the most common parasite problem of dogs and cats in our area. It is estimated that American  pet owners spend over 500 million dollars each year on flea products most of which do not work! During the past few years much research has centered on studying the life cycle of the species of fleas that attack dogs and cats in an effort to develop better flea control methods. There are over 2000 species of fleas, but only a few actually attack dogs and cats

Here are some facts you should know:
 Flea eggs are white and about the size of a grain of sand. The eggs are laid while the flea is on the pet and easily roll off the fur into the environment. Eggs usually hatch in 1 10 days, depending on the temperature and humidity.  Once the eggs hatch, the larvae move deeper into the carpet to get away from light and searching for food. Temperatures below 650 and relative humidity below 70% slow down growth of the flea. When the larva is mature, it produces a silk like cocoon. Because the cocoon is sticky, it quickly becomes coated with debris from the environment that helps camouflage it. 

 This stage can last 9 174 days. Adult fleas emerge from the cocoon when stimulated by heat, vibrations, and exhaled carbon dioxide. The entire life cycle can be completed in as little as 12 14 days, or as long as 140 days.  Under average conditions, the entire life cycle takes 3 4 weeks.

 Adult fleas are attracted to house pets by the warmth of their body, movement, and changes in light intensity, and exhaled carbon dioxide. Fleas have tremendously powerful back legs, which they use for jumping on your pet. It is estimated that if we had the power in our legs that the a flea has; we could jump over the Empire State Building. It is reported that fleas can jump as high as 13 feet.

 It is now known that the adult flea species that attacks dogs and cats spends its ENTIRE Adult Life on your pet.  Once the adult flea begins to feed on your pet, it must have almost constant excess to the blood of your pet for it to survive. Adult fleas cannot live off your pet more than 3 4 days without a blood meal.

 Egg production begins within 48 hours of the first blood meal, reaches a peak of 40 50 eggs per day and can last well over 100 days. Female fleas can produce over 2000 eggs during their life. This is equivalent to producing their body weight in eggs every day of their life. While only a fraction of these eggs will eventually develop to adults in the natural environment, this high rate of reproduction ensures that there will ALWAYS be fleas!

 New adult fleas must have a blood meal within 2 3 weeks after hatching. The higher the temperature and lower the humidity, the quicker the fleas will die.

 It is common for people to be attacked by fleas after returning from vacation or being away from home for several days. This is often due to the increased temperature that occurs when the air conditioning is turned back providing a better optimum temperature and humidity (in our area) for fleas to mature.

 Fleas consume 15 times their body weight with every blood meal. An infestation of 220 female fleas could consume 10% of a 1-pound kitten’s blood volume in one day. The majority of blood
consumed is passed out as partially digested feces (”Flea Dirt”) that serve as essential food for flea larvae in the carpets and other areas.

FLEA CONTROL MUST INCLUDE TREATMENT OF THE YARD, HOUSE, & PET!

ESSENTIAL STEPS FOR FLEA CONTROL

SPOT TREAT THE YARD:
Treat shady areas, damp areas, dog houses, and other areas where your pet spends the majority of it’s time.  Call your local exterminator or yard care professional for more information on getting your yard sprayed for fleas.

TREAT THE HOUSE:
VACUUM the house THOROUGHLY, at least once each week to remove eggs.  This includes vacuuming all carpeted and non carpeted areas as well as your furniture.  When you are finished vacuuming make sure you take your bag out of your vacuum or empty your bagless container into a trash bag and take it outside to put in a closed container.  There are topical powders and OTC bombs you can buy to treat your home after you have cleaned it thoroughly.  Severe infestion usually requires professional bombing of your home by your local exterminator.

USE A VETERINARIAN APPROVED TOPICAL SOLUTION:
There are many OTC flea products out there however the best products to protect your pets from flea infestation can be found at your veterinarian’s office.  These topicals not only prevent against fleas but also prevent against other parasites such as ticks.  They are usually applied every 4 weeks to the skin inbetween the shoulder blades.  Go visit or call your veterinarian today to find out what is the best flea preventative for your pet.  At Brawley Animal Hospital we recommend treating your pet with Vectra.
ALL PETS IN THE HOUSEHOLD MUST BE TREATED AT THE SAME TIME.
TO WIN YOUR WAR WITH FLEAS, IT IS IMPORTANT TO TREAT THE YARD, HOUSE, AND PET AT THE SAME TIME USING APPROPRIATE PRODUCTS FOR EACH.
DON’T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON OVER THE COUNTER PRODUCTS AND “QUICK CURES.”

Dog and cat microchipping is a simple procedure. A veterinarian simply injects a microchip for pets, about the size of a grain of rice (12mm), beneath the surface of your pet’s skin between the shoulder blades. The process is similar to a routine shot, takes only a few seconds, and your pet will not react any more than he would to a vaccination. No anesthetic is required.

A HomeAgain microchip is permanent pet ID. The microchip itself has no internal energy source, so it will last the life of your pet. It is read by passing a microchip scanner over the pet’s shoulder blades. The scanner emits a low radio frequency that provides the power necessary to transmit the microchip’s unique cat or dog ID code and positively identify the pet.

HomeAgain is the only dog & cat microchipping product on the market today that has the Bio-Bond™ patented anti-migration feature to help ensure that the microchip will stay in place so that it may be easily located and scanned. If your pet gets lost and is taken to an animal shelter or veterinarian, they will scan the microchip to read its unique dog or cat ID code. This is the number used by HomeAgain to identify the pet and retrieve your contact information, which is used to contact you and reunite you with your pet.

Click on the link below to watch a video on how to microchip your pet.

Microchipping Your Pet

This information can from HomeAgain microchips.  HomeAgain are the microchips we use at Brawley Animal Hospital!

 With proper treatment, the frequency and severity of aggression may be reduced, but in most cases it cannot be totally eliminated.

 Even after treatment, no one can guarantee that the aggression will never occur again.

  You are legally responsible for your dog’s behavior.

  It is important to realistically consider whether keeping the pet is worth the risks.

 Obtaining a thorough history is important in trying to find a solution to the problem of aggression. 

Please answer the following questions:

  Is your dog aggressive toward family members?

  Is it aggressive to adult family members?

  Is it aggressive to children family members?

  Is it aggressive to other pets in the household?

  Is your dog aggressive to non-family members?

  Is it aggressive to adult non-family members?

  Is it aggressive to children non-family members?

  Is it aggressive to pets not in the household?

  Is your dog’s aggressive behavior recent (within the past 6 months)?

  Did the problem develop gradually

  Is the problem getting worse?

  Does your dog growl or bark threateningly

   Does you’re dog snap?

  Is the aggressive behavior associated with play

  Has your dog ever bitten a person,

  Has your dog ever bitten another animal?

  Is your dog aggressive when approached while eating?

  Is your dog aggressive when disturbed when sleeping or resting?

  Is your dog aggressive when disciplined, threatened, punished, or hit?

  Is your dog aggressive when people enter your home?

  Is your dog aggressive when people enter your yard?

  Is your dog aggressive ONLY when reached for or approached?

  If your dog is female, has she been in heat or had puppies within the past 6 months

  Are their areas of your dog’s body that seem to be especially sensitive?

  Is the aggression related to attempts to groom, medicate, or handle?

  Does the dog have any health problems at this time?

  Do you notice your dog exhibiting fear (ears back, tail tucked)

  Does your dog only fight with dogs of the same sex?

 Types of anal sac disease include:

 IMPACTION:

  Abnormal secretions are thick and unable to escape through the duct.  This may result from a change in diet, or a change in the nature of the secretions. The sacs become swollen and painful.

INFECTION:

Bacteria Infection produces a thin, foul-smelling discharge. Licking of these glands may cause other body infections, such as tonsillitis and skin infections.

ABSCESS FORMATION. 

 If left untreated, infections may abscess resulting in a painful swelling filled with pus that cannot escape. Often the gland will burst from the pressure as the infectious discharge accumulates. Many pets are presented to us with a “hole” beside the rectum, which is a result of a bursting abscess.

 Signs of Anal Sac Disease include:

• “Scooting” or dragging the rear-end on the floor or ground. A discharge may be seen on the floor.
• Jerking around quickly to lick the tail area or excessive licking of the rectal area.
• Reluctance to lift the tail or allow you to touch the rear-end.
• Constipation.
• Bloody drainage around the rectal area.

 Treatment of Anal Sac Disease MAY include:

 Rectal palpation to empty the sacs of the secretions.

 Lancing and/or debriding the infected gland.

 Systemic antibiotics.

 Anti-inflammatory medications.

 Surgical removal of the anal sacs will prevent any future problem and should be considered in recurrent cases. It is recommended for consideration any time a pet has 3 episodes of anal gland problems within a one-year period.