Archive for the ‘Animal Health’ Category

Flea Facts and How to Protect Your Pet

Tuesday, April 13th, 2010

FleaFLEA FACTS

Flea Infestations are the most common parasite problem of dogs and cats in our area. It is estimated that American  pet owners spend over 500 million dollars each year on flea products most of which do not work! During the past few years much research has centered on studying the life cycle of the species of fleas that attack dogs and cats in an effort to develop better flea control methods. There are over 2000 species of fleas, but only a few actually attack dogs and cats

Here are some facts you should know:
 Flea eggs are white and about the size of a grain of sand. The eggs are laid while the flea is on the pet and easily roll off the fur into the environment. Eggs usually hatch in 1 10 days, depending on the temperature and humidity.  Once the eggs hatch, the larvae move deeper into the carpet to get away from light and searching for food. Temperatures below 650 and relative humidity below 70% slow down growth of the flea. When the larva is mature, it produces a silk like cocoon. Because the cocoon is sticky, it quickly becomes coated with debris from the environment that helps camouflage it. 

 This stage can last 9 174 days. Adult fleas emerge from the cocoon when stimulated by heat, vibrations, and exhaled carbon dioxide. The entire life cycle can be completed in as little as 12 14 days, or as long as 140 days.  Under average conditions, the entire life cycle takes 3 4 weeks.

 Adult fleas are attracted to house pets by the warmth of their body, movement, and changes in light intensity, and exhaled carbon dioxide. Fleas have tremendously powerful back legs, which they use for jumping on your pet. It is estimated that if we had the power in our legs that the a flea has; we could jump over the Empire State Building. It is reported that fleas can jump as high as 13 feet.

 It is now known that the adult flea species that attacks dogs and cats spends its ENTIRE Adult Life on your pet.  Once the adult flea begins to feed on your pet, it must have almost constant excess to the blood of your pet for it to survive. Adult fleas cannot live off your pet more than 3 4 days without a blood meal.

 Egg production begins within 48 hours of the first blood meal, reaches a peak of 40 50 eggs per day and can last well over 100 days. Female fleas can produce over 2000 eggs during their life. This is equivalent to producing their body weight in eggs every day of their life. While only a fraction of these eggs will eventually develop to adults in the natural environment, this high rate of reproduction ensures that there will ALWAYS be fleas!

 New adult fleas must have a blood meal within 2 3 weeks after hatching. The higher the temperature and lower the humidity, the quicker the fleas will die.

 It is common for people to be attacked by fleas after returning from vacation or being away from home for several days. This is often due to the increased temperature that occurs when the air conditioning is turned back providing a better optimum temperature and humidity (in our area) for fleas to mature.

 Fleas consume 15 times their body weight with every blood meal. An infestation of 220 female fleas could consume 10% of a 1-pound kitten’s blood volume in one day. The majority of blood
consumed is passed out as partially digested feces (”Flea Dirt”) that serve as essential food for flea larvae in the carpets and other areas.

FLEA CONTROL MUST INCLUDE TREATMENT OF THE YARD, HOUSE, & PET!

ESSENTIAL STEPS FOR FLEA CONTROL

SPOT TREAT THE YARD:
Treat shady areas, damp areas, dog houses, and other areas where your pet spends the majority of it’s time.  Call your local exterminator or yard care professional for more information on getting your yard sprayed for fleas.

TREAT THE HOUSE:
VACUUM the house THOROUGHLY, at least once each week to remove eggs.  This includes vacuuming all carpeted and non carpeted areas as well as your furniture.  When you are finished vacuuming make sure you take your bag out of your vacuum or empty your bagless container into a trash bag and take it outside to put in a closed container.  There are topical powders and OTC bombs you can buy to treat your home after you have cleaned it thoroughly.  Severe infestion usually requires professional bombing of your home by your local exterminator.

USE A VETERINARIAN APPROVED TOPICAL SOLUTION:
There are many OTC flea products out there however the best products to protect your pets from flea infestation can be found at your veterinarian’s office.  These topicals not only prevent against fleas but also prevent against other parasites such as ticks.  They are usually applied every 4 weeks to the skin inbetween the shoulder blades.  Go visit or call your veterinarian today to find out what is the best flea preventative for your pet.  At Brawley Animal Hospital we recommend treating your pet with Vectra.
ALL PETS IN THE HOUSEHOLD MUST BE TREATED AT THE SAME TIME.
TO WIN YOUR WAR WITH FLEAS, IT IS IMPORTANT TO TREAT THE YARD, HOUSE, AND PET AT THE SAME TIME USING APPROPRIATE PRODUCTS FOR EACH.
DON’T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON OVER THE COUNTER PRODUCTS AND “QUICK CURES.”

Aggressive Dog

Wednesday, May 27th, 2009

The aggressive dog is a difficult problem.  If you are the owner of an aggressive dog, you should weigh the risks of keeping an aggressive pet against the benefits.  It is important that you consider the following:

 With proper treatment, the frequency and severity of aggression may be reduced, but in most cases it cannot be totally eliminated.

 Even after treatment, no one can guarantee that the aggression will never occur again.

  You are legally responsible for your dog’s behavior.

  It is important to realistically consider whether keeping the pet is worth the risks.

 Obtaining a thorough history is important in trying to find a solution to the problem of aggression. 

Please answer the following questions:

  Is your dog aggressive toward family members?

  Is it aggressive to adult family members?

  Is it aggressive to children family members?

  Is it aggressive to other pets in the household?

  Is your dog aggressive to non-family members?

  Is it aggressive to adult non-family members?

  Is it aggressive to children non-family members?

  Is it aggressive to pets not in the household?

  Is your dog’s aggressive behavior recent (within the past 6 months)?

  Did the problem develop gradually

  Is the problem getting worse?

  Does your dog growl or bark threateningly

   Does you’re dog snap?

  Is the aggressive behavior associated with play

  Has your dog ever bitten a person,

  Has your dog ever bitten another animal?

  Is your dog aggressive when approached while eating?

  Is your dog aggressive when disturbed when sleeping or resting?

  Is your dog aggressive when disciplined, threatened, punished, or hit?

  Is your dog aggressive when people enter your home?

  Is your dog aggressive when people enter your yard?

  Is your dog aggressive ONLY when reached for or approached?

  If your dog is female, has she been in heat or had puppies within the past 6 months

  Are their areas of your dog’s body that seem to be especially sensitive?

  Is the aggression related to attempts to groom, medicate, or handle?

  Does the dog have any health problems at this time?

  Do you notice your dog exhibiting fear (ears back, tail tucked)

  Does your dog only fight with dogs of the same sex?

ANAL SAC DISEASE

Wednesday, May 27th, 2009

The anal sacs (glands) lie beneath the skin, on each side of the rectal opening. The anal sacs are lined with glands that produce a secretion with a strong odor. This is the same gland as the “scent gland” of the skunk.  The secretion is normally discharged from the rectum with the stools or when the rectal muscle tightens–such as when your pet is frightened.  If the canal emptying the gland does not close completely, your pet may leave foul-smelling fluid where they have been.

 Types of anal sac disease include:

 IMPACTION:

  Abnormal secretions are thick and unable to escape through the duct.  This may result from a change in diet, or a change in the nature of the secretions. The sacs become swollen and painful.

INFECTION:

Bacteria Infection produces a thin, foul-smelling discharge. Licking of these glands may cause other body infections, such as tonsillitis and skin infections.

ABSCESS FORMATION. 

 If left untreated, infections may abscess resulting in a painful swelling filled with pus that cannot escape. Often the gland will burst from the pressure as the infectious discharge accumulates. Many pets are presented to us with a “hole” beside the rectum, which is a result of a bursting abscess.

 Signs of Anal Sac Disease include:

  • “Scooting” or dragging the rear-end on the floor or ground. A discharge may be seen on the floor.
  • Jerking around quickly to lick the tail area or excessive licking of the rectal area.
  • Reluctance to lift the tail or allow you to touch the rear-end.
  • Constipation.
  • Bloody drainage around the rectal area.

 Treatment of Anal Sac Disease MAY include:

 Rectal palpation to empty the sacs of the secretions.

 Lancing and/or debriding the infected gland.

 Systemic antibiotics.

 Anti-inflammatory medications.

 Surgical removal of the anal sacs will prevent any future problem and should be considered in recurrent cases. It is recommended for consideration any time a pet has 3 episodes of anal gland problems within a one-year period.